Trioceros jacksonii spp. - Jackson's Chameleon

Picture
Intermediate Care
Picture
Tropical Species
Picture
Diurnal
Picture
Ovoviviparous
Jackson's chameleons are a small lizard with specific needs to thrive, and are not good beginner pets. They are a tropical, arboreal lizard and are diurnal, meaning they are active during the day. They are easily stressed so are best if left alone as a display only pet. Male's display a prominent trio of horns on their head, and females are ovoviviparous, meaning they give birth to live young.

There are 3 known subspecies of Trioceros jacksonii: jackson jacksonii, jacksonii merumontanus and jacsonii xantholophus. 


Picture
A male Jackson's Chameleon
Picture
Companion Card Available
Bring Home Your New Pet

When you bring your new chameleon home, you should already have a quarantine enclosure set up and ready to go. Be sure to have the setup ready ahead of time and check temperatures and basking spots for proper temps before you add your chameleon. They may not eat the first couple days, or even longer. You should keep this new pet separate from any other pets you may have for 90 days, to ensure there is nothing it could spread to your other animals.

Monitor its eating and fecals as they may be strange for up to a couple weeks, but this is due to a new diet, supplements, and environment. It is recommended you do not handle your new chameleon for the first 24-48 hours and keeping it to a minimum until it has started eating on its own.

​Always keep in mind, your new animal is in a new tank, with new decor/dishes/hides, and new faces watching them. They need time to become acclimated to it all. After this quarantine process, they can be safely introduced to their permanent enclosure if it's not already. Be sure to wash your hands before handling any other pets during this time.
Enclosure

Jackson's chameleons need quite a bit of space as adults, even though they are smaller than most other chameleon species. They are prone to respiratory infections if their air becomes too stagnant, so screen is HIGHLY recommended for chameleons. If you do choose a glass or PVC enclosure, be prepared to monitor for increased likelihood of respiratory issues and adjust the enclosure parameters as needed. 

Babies can start out in smaller enclosures, but an adult chameleon needs at minimum a 24" x 24" by 48" or 36" x 18" x 36" screen enclosure. Bigger is always better, and vertical space is a must.
Substrate

Loose substrates like sand are not recommended for chameleons. Bare bottom enclosures are recommended, and paper towel can be used if desired, however all loose substrate should be kept to a minimum except for in potted plants, where a top layer of natural topsoil is best.

Their high humidity and water access needs often make it necessary to have a basin of some sort under the cage that your chameleon cannot access to collect water.
Compatibility

Lizards by nature are solitary animals. Do not house a chameleon with another. They thrive best alone without the stress of competing with another animal in its space.
​
It is recommended that each chameleon be housed alone to reduce stress, food aggression, dominance and fighting.

Females are more advanced keeping due to their birthing needs. Do not keep a pair unless you are well prepared.
Heating

Jackson's chameleons are cold blooded, so they rely on their environment to regulate body temperature. It is important that the ambient daytime temperature in the enclosure be between 68-75 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Basking spots are vital to aid in digestion and regulate body temperature. Their basking spot should be 80-85 degrees F. A deep dome light fixture with an incandescent household flood bulb will provide the basking spot they need. Do not use LED or halogen bulbs as they don't provide the heat needed. Plant bulbs are also good choices.
Temperature drops into the 50-60's at night are natural. Place all lights on a timer. Your chameleon should not have any lighting in its enclosure during nighttime hours.

Night time temperature drops are important for this species. Be sure to turn off all heat sources and choose a cooler area to keep your Jackson's to achieve this.

Use a laser heat gun to measure the basking temperature directly on a branch under the light one hour after the light goes on for most accurate reading. Thermostats or dimmers can be used to adjust the heat output on the bulb if it is too high.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Each subspecies varies slightly in their preferred temperatures. T.j. merunmontanus prefer cooler temps with a basking spot of 79F, ambient of 64-68 and a night time drop of under 59F.

Please be sure to research your exact species for in depth temperature requirements. This care sheet focuses on the most common Jackson's kept in captivity, the T.j. xantholophus.
Lighting

Jackson's chameleons require full spectrum lighting for 12-14 hours a day. T5HO tube bulbs are recommended, and should span the entire top of your enclosure of 24" or more. 5.0 Zoomed or 6% Arcadia tube lights are best. If using 10.0 zoomed or 12% Arcadia bulbs, be sure you have thick foliage on the top half of the enclosure.
​
UVB fixtures should be placed on top of the enclosure for safest use. Bulbs need to be replaced every 6 months as the effectiveness of the UVB output wanes with time. It is very important for the health of your chameleon that your bulbs be replaced in a timely manner or tested with a UVB meter for effectiveness. 

LED lights can be added for the health and growth of live plants in the enclosure.
Cage Decor

Jackson's chameleons are especially at danger to ingest unsafe items because of the way they eat, so decorate your enclosure with care. Live, reptile safe plants are highly recommended for their health. Some great live plants to use are hibiscus, pothos, ficus, schefflera tree, yucca, bromeliads, rubber tree, and dragon tree. 

Lots of natural or artificial branches should be provided for safe climbing. If using fake branches or vines, choose ones without moss on them. Natural branches should be non-pine and non-conifer woods. Bamboo is acceptable, but be sure they are smaller than the chameleons grip and sanded lightly to add roughness.
Humidity and Shedding

Jackson's chameleons require higher humidity because they are a tropical species, however, they are very prone to respiratory issues if their enclosure becomes stagnant. This is why screen is much preferred for keeping chameleons. Providing for their humidity needs while avoiding stagnant air can be one of the trickier parts of chameleon care.

Misting systems or hand misting with a spray bottle is one of the main forms of keeping humidity up in the enclosure. Periods of drying out between misting is necessary to keep the air from becoming too wet. You can achieve this by misting heavily (1-2 minutes or more) in the morning and in the evening. Humidity levels should range between 80-100% during the night. Chameleons will often wake up and directly go to lick the water droplets off the leaves from misting before they head for their basking spots. Daytime humidity should drop to 30-50%. 

Many keepers will run a fogger for a few hours at night to mimic the natural cool, moist air of the panther chameleons natural habitat.

Chameleons will shed their skin as they grow, and can be rather dramatic about it! One day you will see your chameleon look like it is exploding from their skin as it flakes off. If their humidity levels are proper, they will shed without issue.
Water

Chameleons will not drink from a standing water source. Drippers are recommended to provide your chameleon with a constant source of fresh water throughout the daytime. They will lick the drops of water off the leaves as the water drips. Be sure to have a safe source to collect the dripping water so it does not pool on the bottom of the cage. One way to achieve this is by placing the dripping tube so it drips down a plant leave and into the soil of the potted plant, which is very beneficial to the plant. Another method of collecting excess water from misting and dripping is having a water collection reservoir under the cage that the chameleon cannot access.
Supplements/Minerals

To ensure proper bone development and overall health, insects should be dusted with calcium at each feeding. If your UVB is proper, it is best to use calcium without D3 at every feeding, and twice a month use calcium WITH D3 as well as a vitamin supplement powder.
  
​Feeding

Chameleons mostly eat a large variety of insects. While they occasionally will eat plant matter, they are classified as an insectivorous species.

Crickets, dubia roaches, and moths are a great staple diet. Other great insect choices are lobster roaches, red runners, banana roaches, discoid roaches, locust, phoenix and silk worms. Be sure the insects you offer are no bigger than the space between your chameleons eyes. Be sure to remove uneaten insects.

Feeding requirements change as your chameleon dragon ages. Growing chameleons should fed daily, as much as they will eat. As your chameleon ages, their food requirements change. Adults can be fed 2-3 insects every other day. How many insects you offer depends on their body condition and age. Obesity is an issue in chameleons, so monitor their body for signs of overfeeding.

Leaving uneaten insects in the enclosure can cause harm if they bite and crawl on your chameleon. Many keepers use feeding stations to avoid this issue and to monitor how much their chameleon is eating.




Recommended Product! Log Lunch feeders from Sunset Chameleons
​
Handling

Chameleons are a wonderful display pet, but should not be handled unless necessary. They are very prone to stress, which increases the likelihood of illness. Choose a quiet area of your home to place their enclosure, and keep other pets and activities away from this area. If you do handle your chameleon, be aware that they will likely constantly be looking for higher, safe ground and will use their hands and tail to tightly grip whatever surfaces are available to them. A fall can be deadly, so handle with caution and let your chameleon walk hand to hand at their own pace. Never wrap your hands around your chameleon; doing so can break their fragile ribs and bones. 

Jackson's chameleons are mostly shades of green and yellow and can change the depth and intensity of the shades of these colors they display. However, they do not change color to match or blend into their surroundings as commonly thought. They use their colors to regulate their body temperature as well as to communicate their moods or needs to other chameleons. For example, is your chameleons gaping and displaying bright colors? This is a display of dominance and aggression.
Lifespan & Size

Jackson's chameleons have an average lifespan of 5-10 years. Males grow to be 10-13 inches and females slightly smaller at 9-13".
Care info updated 11/2023