Dyscophus Sp. - Tomato Frog
There are three species in this frog from Madagascar that are members of the Dyschophus genus and share the common name of Tomato Frog, but their care is similar. Both "true" (Dyscophus antongilii) and "false" tomato frogs (Dyscophus guineti) are a tropical to sub-tropical species that look very similar. The third is Dyscophus insularis. They are nocturnal ambush predators with defensive abilities like secreting a toxic sticky substance from their backs and puffing up, which along with their bright coloration is where they got their name. Unlike most amphibians, these guys do have a mouthful of teeth!
Bringing Home Your New Pet
When you bring your new frog home, you should already have a quarantine tank set up and ready to go. Place fresh water in a bowl in the tank, mist the tank and offer food, but be aware it is completely normal for them to refuse food for the first couple days, or even longer. You should keep this new frog separate from any other reptiles you may have for 90 days, to ensure there is nothing it could spread to your other animals. Monitor its eating and fecals as they may be strange for up to a couple weeks, but this is due to a new diet, supplements, and environment. It is recommended you do not handle your new frog for the first 24-48 hours and keeping it to a minimum until it has started eating on its own. Always keep in mind, your new animal is in a new tank, with new decor/dishes/hides, and new faces watching them. They need time to become acclimated to it all. After this quarantine process, they can be safely introduced to their permanent enclosure if it's not already. Be sure to wash your hands before handling any other reptiles during this time. Always purchase captive bred animals when possible, to avoid disease and parasites. |
Enclosure Tomato frogs are a larger species of frog, and do require some space. An 18" x 18" x 24" or 20 gallon long terrarium is perfect for 1-2 frogs. They are terrestrial, so a horizontal tank or terrarium is necessary. Add more space if you add more frogs. Their humidity requirements are high, so a terrarium with a top would be better suited to these humid needs. |
Substrate
Tomato frogs spend much of their time burrowed, and need a substrate that retains moisture well and allows them to burrow for security. Coco fiber, soil mixtures, and organic topsoils are a good choice. Be sure your substrate is at least 2-3" deep so your frog feels secure. Do not use pebbles or gravel as the risk of impaction is high. Spot clean often. Sphagnum moss can be added on top to help retain moisture. |
Heating
Tomato frogs are cold blooded, so they rely on their environment to regulate body temperature. Tomato frogs can be kept at room temperature, but will appreciate a temperature gradient if one is offered. Be sure the tank is big enough to allow them to move where they are most comfortable. A heat pad on a thermostat on one side of the tank will allow for this gradient. A low watt basking bulb can be used as well, but will dry out the air quicker. Aim for temperatures of 65-80° F daytime ambient. A night time drop is natural, but don't allow temperatures to fall under 65° F. |
Lighting
Tomato frogs are nocturnal, meaning they are most active at night! They should be exposed to 10-12 hours of light per day. Reptiles benefit from exposure to UVB lighting, so offering it for your frog is a healthy addition to their environment. Lights should be on a timer to achieve a natural day and light lighting cycle to match the seasons. |
Cage Decor
These frogs like it pretty simple, as they spend most of their time burrowed. Offer cork flats or hollow logs for hiding in and climbing on, and leaf litter is a great way to top off your substrate for additional hiding opportunities. Add a shallow bowl for water and a few fake plants and sturdy branches and you are set, as they do like to climb a bit. |
Humidity and Shedding
Tomato frogs are tropical, and require a high humidity level of around 65-80%. Make sure your enclosure has enough air flow so the air does not become stagnant. Mist 1-2 times a day to help keep the humidity up, but allow the enclosure to dry out between misting. It should not constantly be wet. Humidity fluctuations are healthy. Moistening the sphagnum moss rather than soaking the entire substrate is a good way to raise humidity, but don't allow the substrate to dry out too much. A hygrometer to measure humidity is a great investment for this species. |
Water
Your frog should have access to water to soak in that is deep enough to cover most of their bodies, but not so deep they can't easily get in and out of the bowl. These frogs are not good swimmers. Change this water daily and treat with water conditioner as frogs are very sensitive to contaminates in the water. Clean the bowl throughly between each water change. Check daily to be sure they have not soiled their water, and change immediately if they have. Frogs like to use their water dishes as latrines. |
Feeding
Tomato frogs are insectivores and love to eat. Turkestan red runner roaches, crickets, worms and other types of reptile-safe insects should be the staple of their diets. An occasional pinkie mouse can be offered to adults. They do have small mouths for a frog, so be sure food is small enough for them to easily eat. Insects should be gutloaded with a commercial gutload product. Gutloading refers to the practice of feeding the insects a nutritious diet before offering them to your frog, to ensure the most balanced nutrition. Your frog should be fed based on temperatures and size of frog. Young, growing frogs kept in warmer conditions will eat more often and more at a time than a larger frog kept cooler. Feed babies and young frogs daily. You want your frog to be nice and round, but not overly fat. This can be tricky to judge with these frogs because they are chunky by nature. Typically for adults, offering 3-5 food items 2-3 times a week is sufficient. |
Handling
Tomato frogs should not be handled unless absolutely necessary. It not only is stressful for them, but they can defensively secrete a mildly toxic substance from their backs.However if you do handle your frog be sure to wash any lotions or perfumes off your skin first, as all frogs are sensitive to lotions, perfumes and oils. Wash your hands after handling them as well. |