Chelonoidis cabonarius - Red-Footed Tortoise
Red-Footed Tortoises are a medium sized, tropical dwelling tortoise named for their red heads and raised red scales on their legs. They are inquisitive, out-going and make great pets, however like all tortoises, they need a lot of space as adults. Tortoise live on land and cannot swim, unlike most turtles.
Bring Home Your New Pet
When you bring your new tortoise home, you should already have a quarantine enclosure set up and ready to go. Place fresh water in the enclosure, mist the tank and offer food, but be aware it is completely normal for them to refuse food for the first couple days, or even longer. You should keep this new pet separate from any other pets you may have for 90 days, to ensure there is nothing it could spread to your other animals. Monitor its eating and fecals as they may be strange for up to a couple weeks, but this is due to a new diet, supplements, and environment. It is recommended you do not handle your new tortoise for the first 24-48 hours and keeping it to a minimum until it has started eating on its own. Always keep in mind, your new animal is in a new enclosure, with new decor/dishes/hides, and new faces watching them. They need time to become acclimated to it all. After this quarantine process, they can be safely introduced to their permanent enclosure if it's not already. Be sure to wash your hands before handling any other pets during this time. |
Enclosure Red-footed tortoises are a smaller species of tortoise, but they still get quite big and need plenty of space. Their humidity needs compared to other tortoises make their enclosure needs more tricky. Open-topped tortoise tables are not recommended as it is difficult to keep the humidity at proper levels. A 6' by 4' by 2' enclosure is minimum for a single adult red-footed tortoise, and more space will definitely be utilized by this active species. Most tortoise owners custom-build a suitable enclosure. They can be housed outdoors in warmer climates, but be sure your outdoor enclosure is safe from predators and keep in mind that tortoises are extreme diggers and escape artists, so perimeters need to have a solid bottom or be dug deep into the ground to prevent escape. Young tortoises can be kept in modified large Christmas tree plastic storage totes, but such enclosures will not house them for long, so plan for the needs of an adult tortoise when you purchase. |
Substrate
Loose substrates are best for red-footed tortoises. They not only help maintain humidity, but they allow for natural burrowing behaviors. Substrates should be minimum 6" deep. Some recommended substrates are top soil and sand mixtures, cypress or orchid bark, and sphagnum moss. Substrates can be misted daily in the A.M. to help keep humidity percentages higher, and should be spot cleaned daily. |
Compatibility
Red-footed tortoises can be a bit more social than other species, but if you plan to keep more than one tortoise, keep in mind the enclosure size needs to be much larger, and breeding behaviors can be intense and unwanted. They are fine as a single pet, and it is advised to keep them alone unless you are experienced and can separate incompatible pairs into their own separate enclosures. |
Heating
Red-footed tortoises are diurnal and active during the day. They love to bask, and need a basking spot of 90-95 degrees Fahrenheit. You may need a cluster of two domes with heat bulbs to achieve a basking area big enough for an adult tortoise to utilize properly. Ambient temperatures can range from 75-85 degrees and night time drops into the low 70's are fine. If night time temps drop below 65, you will need a heat emitter bulb that emits no light to keep the temperatures safe for your tortoise. |
Lighting
Red-Footed Tortoises require full spectrum lighting for 12-14 hours a day. Reptisun 10.0 T5 or T8 bulbs or Arcadia 12% tubes are known to provide some of the best full UVB for your tortoise. Screen tops can filter some of this vital light, and the bulbs only last about 6 months before they need to be replaced as they become less efficient over time. If possible, your tortoise should be able to get within 10-12" of the light to receive the best benefits. These fixtures should span as much of the length of their enclosure as possible. Having the correct type of UVB is important to their development and health and lack of UVB can have serious effects. Be sure to have lights on a timer to offer a natural day and night lighting cycle. |
Cage Decor
Large, flat rocks under the heat light will provide a suitable basking area for your tortoise, and they like tight hides they can wedge themselves under at night and when in need of shade. Safe, edible live plants are great decorations, but red-footed tortoises are very active and curious and will try to chomp on anything in their enclosure, so be sure whatever you put in there is safe and edible. They appreciate enrichment of low logs and rocks to climb over, but take care that anything they can climb on is not too tall that they will flip themselves on to their backs and be unable to get back up. Slate tiles are great for feeding on, as they allow your tortoise to grind their beaks down while eating. |
Humidity
Red-footed tortoises are a tropical tortoise, and their humidity needs are high. Aim for a 50-70% humidity in their enclosures. This can be achieved by building a greenhouse inspired top for their enclosure, misting daily in the A.M., or use of foggers. Avoid running foggers or misters in the P.M. hours when the temperatures are lower to avoid respiratory infections. Dry periods are necessary as well, you do not want a constant source of high humidity, so allow the humidity to drop at night and bring it back up during the active, warm daytime hours. |
Water
Red-footed tortoises love to soak, but they cannot swim, so water dishes need to be deep enough for them to climb into and drink and soak, but not so deep they will struggle to get out of or drown. Paint trays are a commonly used water source for tortoises. Their water needs to be cleaned often, as they will soil it quickly!! Be sure to change and disinfect their water bowls daily. You can also soak your tortoise in a warm water bath weekly to help keep them hydrated. Baby tortoises especially need to be soaked daily to keep them healthy. Adults can be soaked weekly. |
Feeding
Red-footed tortoises are omnivorous, meaning they eat both protein and plant matter. One of the most difficult part of owning a tortoise is understanding their dietary needs. This is a very basic guide - further research is recommended. Feeding requirements change as your tortoise ages. Baby tortoises (hatchling to 5 months old) should be fed daily, while juveniles to adults can be fed every other day. A basic rule of thumb for food offerings for a red-footed tortoise is 60% dark leafy greens, 15% vegetables, 15% fruits and 10% protein matter. Mazuri Tortoise Pellets are an excellent addition to their diet. Pellets can be soaked and added to their salads 2-3 times a week. Other sources of protein are earthworms, young, thawed feeder mice, canned grain-free cat food, bone-in cooked chicken pieces, or crickets, dubia roaches or mealworms. Tortoises also love edible weeds and flowers. A great resource for a list of safe plants and flowers can be found here. |
Handling
Red-footed tortoises are usually very docile and easy to handle, but every tortoise personality is different. They cannot climb well, so sitting on the floor and holding your tortoise in your lap and letting them explore around you is the best way to handle them. Pick them up by supporting their entire body under your hands. |